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Armenian First Ascent Open Festival - May 26-28, 2011 Arpa Gorge
Written by Mkhitar Mkitaryan   
Thursday, 02 June 2011
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In the afternoon of May 26, the event crew set up the camp on the plateau above Arpa Gorge, one of two basalt columns formation of Armenia. Like the basalt columns at Garni Gorge, basalt column formations in Arpa Gorge are also considered Natural Monuments. To climb on these formations during the Festival only by Clean Climbing discipline,
Up The Rocks club received permission of Ministry of Nature Protection.

The campsite was not set on the spot it was initially planned. Due to flooded river from recent days’ continuous rains, it was not possible to cross the river walking to set the camp at the small field below the Devil’s tower. So, it was set up on the plateau right above the tower from where we needed just some 5min hike down to the base of the rocks. To get to another climbing section, 800m above by the river from Devil’s tower, we just need to drive along the river there and to cross Arpa River by the wire bridge.
After setting up the camp, small excursion to Gndevanq Monastery (10thc) was organized. Afterwards, some went down to check the rocks and lines for the next day climbing, while others did some slacklining.

In the morning of May 27, Vladimir Belousov started with FFA of the route “Eagles aren’t home” which was first ascended by Mkhitar Mkhitaryan on the Festival 2009. Aleksey Antonov and Aleksey Adamov started warming up on Alex Chabot’s “Pencils” 6c+, whereas Nasim Eshqi and Caroline North climbed new line “Find the Pleasure”. During the rest of the day other existing lines were repeated.

Three more beautiful lines were initiated next day, on May 28. After crossing the gushing river by wire- and branch-made bridge, being secured by rope guard rail, the climbers started hiking up the slope to the rocks. Vladimir Belousov did “Short trip”, Caroline and Nasim did “2 girls in dreamland” and two Alexeys, from Russia, did “The village hour”.
In the afternoon the crew returned to Yerevan. Another destination was waiting for the climbers for the next day. That was Garni Gorge with the similar basalt column formations!

Go to Photo Gallery!

The list of FAs in Arpa Gorge
Topo will be provided later in our website!

Attention – the routes marked NC* mean "No Chains" (or rappel slings) at the anchor. Due to lack of the resources we could provide only bolts and hangers to the event participants to put an anchors on the pitches they did first ascents. For the rappel, prussics on the anchors were used. Do not use the same prussic on the anchors when you climb those routes, put your own prussic before rappelling!
Up The Rocks club will appreciate very much to the organizations or individuals who would donate some chains and rappel slings to attach them on the existing anchors!

Route Grade Height FA
1. Find the Pleasure - NC* 6b/5.10c 20m Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi
2. Eagles aren’t Home 6b+/5.10d 28m FFA by Vladimir Belousov
3. Short Trip (Natural anchor from webbing) 7a/5.11d 26m Vladimir Belousov
4. The Village Hour - NC* 6a/5.10a 30m Aleksey Antonov and Aleksey Adamov
5. 2 Girls in Dreamland - NC* 6c+/5.11c 32m Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi

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