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Armenian First Ascent Open Festival May 21-31, 2011 - Outcome |
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Written by Mkhitar Mkitaryan
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Thursday, 02 June 2011 |
Armenian First Ascent Open Festival 2011 was successfully and productively completed.
48 traditional, sport and bouldering routes were established as a result of the festival!
The number of the routes in Armenia was almost doubled from the pre-event time. The event was took place in five different rocky areas of Armenia: Hell's Canyon, Chiva Blocks, Noravanq Canyon, Arpa Gorge and Garni Gorge.
It provided a nice opportunity to get useful feedback from climbers of different countries with different climbing styles, which enabled the convergence of their opinions and preferences about the aspects of developing climbing on the rock formations of these sites.
Announcements of Armenian First Ascent Open Festival in the different climbing websites also resulted in numerous feedbacks from the climbers from all over the world who plan on visiting Armenia in the future. Organizing this event the second time, our experience in organizational details and rock climbing aspects escalated. We hope that in the future this Festival will become a nice tradition of gathering Armenian and foreign climbers in Armenia.
Once more we express our gratitude to:
- Marine Mkhitaryan and Tatevik Zohrabyan for their donations,
- National Competitiveness Foundation of Armenia
to find our event as a useful tool for “Southern Corridor Project”
and supporting it,
- “Maple Leaf Company” to putting new sport routes and sharing presents for event participants,
- "HaftGohar" Iranian gear producer company for hangers,
- “Spitak” Rescue Team
for providing safety support.
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Below is the list of First Ascents done within the scope of Festival
Topo will be provided later in our website!
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Attention – the routes marked NC* mean "No Chains" (or rappel slings) at the anchor. Due to lack of the resources we could provide only bolts and hangers to the event participants to put an anchors on the pitches they did first ascents. For the rappel, prussics on the anchors were used. Do not use the same prussic on the anchors when you climb those routes, put your own prussic before rappelling!
Up The Rocks club will appreciate very much to the organizations or individuals who would donate some chains and rappel slings to attach them on the existing anchors! |
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New Sport climbs in Hell's Canyon
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Route name |
Grade |
Height |
Route setter |
FA |
| East Sector: |
| 1. |
Redemption |
5c/5.9 |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Caroline North |
| 2. |
Hell's Diamond |
7a/5.11d |
30m |
Mkhitar Mkhitaryan |
Will Nazarian |
| 3. |
unnamed |
6b+/c? |
40m |
Mkhitar Mkhitaryan |
project |
| West sector |
| 4. |
The Maple way of drilling (in the cave) |
- |
15m |
Jared Nielson |
project |
| 5. |
Cliff Chicken |
6c+/5.11c |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
project |
| 6. |
Institutionalized |
6c,+/5.11b |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 7. |
Death Spank |
6b/5.10c |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 8. |
Centipede |
6a/5.10a |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 9. |
Side Swipe |
5c/5.9 |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 10. |
Frost Bite |
6a+/5.10b |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 11. |
Fire and Brimstone |
6b+/5.10d |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 12. |
Spinal Crack |
6b+/5.10d |
20m |
Jared Nielson |
Jared Nielson |
| 13. |
Screaming Khorovats |
5c/5.9 |
15m |
Jason Stevens |
Jason Stevens |
| 14. |
Cheese and Wieners |
6a/5.10a? |
15m |
Jason Stevens |
Jared Nielson |
| 15. |
Ignorance |
6a/5.10a |
15m |
Jason Stevens |
Jared Nielson |
| 16. |
World Famous Nobody |
6b/5.10c |
15m |
Jason Stevens |
Jason Stevens |
| 17. |
Estragon and Sissy Bolts |
5b/5.8? |
15m |
Jason Stevens |
Jason Stevens |
Bouldering problems at Chiva Blocks |
Block 1 |
| Problem | Grade | FA |
| 18. A | V3 | Caroline North |
| 19. B | V3 | Caroline North |
| 20. C | V2 | Nasim Eshqi |
| Block 2 | 21. A | V4 | Caroline north |
| Block 3 | 22. With a Help of Nature | V0 | Andrea Poppova |
| 23. May 23 | V0 | Aurelia Schwarzmann |
Traditional and Sport climbing routes in Noravanq Canyon |
| Route | Grade | Height | Route setter | FA |
| 24. | Nasim and Caro - NC* TG | 6a/5.10a | 35m | - | Nasim Eshqi and Caroline North |
| 25. | Soviet Nail – Sport | 5b/5.8 | 20m | Jason Stevens | Jason Stevens |
| 26. | CatAlex - NC* TG | R1 6a/5.10a - 45m
R2 6a/5.10a - 40m
R3 5b/5.8 - 30m | 115m | - | Andranik Miribyan and Vahe Tamamyan |
| 27. | Jo.Si.To. Girls Power - NC* TG | R1 5b/5.8 - 35m
R2 6a+/5.10b - 40m
R3 6b+/5.10d - 40m
R4 6a+/5.10b - 50m | 165m | - | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi |
| 28. | Vehicular Homicide - Sport | ungraded | 20m | Jason Stevens | Jared Nielson |
| 29. | Eghegnadzor - NC* TG | 6a/5.10a | 35m | - | Aleksey Antonov and Aleksey Adamov |
| 30. | Marshuka Melee – Sport | 6a+/5.10b | 25m | Jared Nielson | Jared Nielson |
| 31. | The End - NC* TG | R1 6a/5.10a - 50m
R2 6a/5.10a - 32m
| 82m | - | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi (after the event) |
Clean Climbs in Arpa Gorge |
| Route | Grade | Height | FA |
| 32. | Find the Pleasure - NC* | 6b/5.10c | 20m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi |
| 33. | Eagles aren’t Home | 6b+/5.10d | 28m | FFA by Vladimir Belousov |
| 34. | Short Trip (Natural anchor from webbing) | 7a/5.11d | 26m | Vladimir Belousov |
| 35. | The Village Hour - NC* | 6a/5.10a | 30m | Aleksey Antonov and Aleksey Adamov |
| 36. | 2 Girls in Dreamland - NC* | 6c+/5.11c | 32m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi |
| 37. | Good Bye Tricam - NC* | 6b/5.10c | 32m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi (after the event) |
| 38. | Gri-gri Guide - NC* | 7a+/5.12a | 37m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi (after the event) |
Clean Climbs in Garni Gorge |
| Route | Grade | Height | FA |
| 39. | Orphans of Justice | 5b/5.8 | 12m | Jared Nielson |
| 40. | Thongs of Virtue | 5b/5.8 | 12m | Jared Nielson |
| 41. | unnamed | 5c/5.9 | 12m | Aleksey Antonov
(hasn’t anchored, but used the anchor of the route on the left, but it’s a bit complicated) |
| 42. | Guano Apes | 5b/5.8 | 12m | Aleksey Adamov |
| 43. | AnDoVenture | 5c/5.9 | 12m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi |
| 44. | Snakeskin | 5b/5.8 | 12m | Will Nazarian |
| 45. | Spitak is Rescued | 6a/5.10a | 12m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi |
| 46. | Airivanq | 7a/5.11d | 35m | Will Nazarian |
| 47. | Knot Doudouk | 7a/5.11d | 30m | Will Nazarian |
| 48. | Up The Rocks NC* | 6b+/5.10d | 35m | Caroline North and Nasim Eshqi |
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SUPPORTERS
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Email:
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Bolt, hanger and ice climbing gear producer in Iran
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